Master Mustard

May 31, 1999
Wine Spectator

Styles like Coarse Grain, Herb an American Yellow bring zing to a classic condiment.
By: Sam Gugino

On Oct. 27, 1986, the Red Sox lost the World Series to the Mets. Heartbroken, Sox fan Barry Levenson decided he needed a hobby to take his mind off his grief. While strolling through a supermarket in Mount Horeb, Wis., he came upon the mustard section and for no particular reason, wondered how many mustards he could collect. Thirteen years and 3,122 mustards later, Levenson is still collecting-as curator of the Mount Horeb Mustard Museum and executive director of the World Mustard Association.

This probably wouldn't have happened if the field of specialty mustards hadn't exploded in the past decade. According to Rom Tanner, vice president of the National Association of the specialty Food Trade, four years ago there were approximately 150 mustard exhibitors at NASFT's Fancy Food Show. At this years's winter show in San Francisco, there were more than 300. "New companies are coming along all the time, but there are also existing companies who have decided to expand their product lines to include mustards along with salsas and barbecue sauces," Tanner says.

The ubiquitous phosphorescent-yellow hot dog mustard has given way to a medley of mustards that look like they came right off the menus of the most au courant restaurants. "I've discovered a lot of different flavor combinations in my 15 years of restaurant work and have put them into mustards that are a good base for adding flavors," says Susan Furst, who, with her sister Martha, owns Terrapin Ridge, an Illinois company that makes such mustards as Wasabi Lime, Molé, and Thai Curry & Sweet Basil. "The variety we have in this country today is up there with any other country in the world," Levenson says. "Part of the reason is growth of the specialty food industry in general. Another reason is that mustard represents a way of getting different flavors easily." It's also a way of getting flavors with no fat (at between 5 and 20 calories per tablespoon). Oddly enough, the newfangled American mustard concoctions aren't so new. In the 17th century, the French were adding special ingredients like truffles and lavender to their mustards. While mustard in cooking predates the Egyptian pharaohs, it wasn't until the early 18th century that a system for creating mustard powder-from which the smooth mustards of today are made- was created in England. Until then, mustards were thick pastes made from white seeds. The city of Dijon, in Northern Burgundy, became a mustard-making capital because the local monks grew mustard seeds and combined them with vinegar made from the region's wine. (A 1937 decree governing Dijon mustard production allows the addition of wine as well as verjus-unfermented grape juice.)

The French still dominate the Dijon category, but Old Spice, an American Dijon, took the bronze medal in the 1999 World Wide Mustard Competition in March (produced by the Napa Valley Mustard Festival). Another American Dijon, Inglehoffer, took silver medals in previous competitions. (There are no American standards for Dijon mustard-Any American-produced mustard calls itself "Dijon.")

Old Spice and Inglehoffer are made by Beaverton Foods in Beaverton Ore., the grandfather of specialty mustard makers producing 100 varieties under it's own labels (which include the Beaver and Nappa Valley brands) and dozens more for other companies. Company president Gene Biggi started making specialty mustards in the 1950's for companies like Hickory Farms, which wanted something to serve with it's sausages. "They didn't want ballpark mustard and they couldn't afford to import Dijon. So my father created a sweet-and-hot mustard based on a Russian hot-mustard recipe," says Dominic Biggi, a company vice president.

Sweet Hot is but one category in the World Wide Mustard Competitions; the other 10 are Coarse Grain, Classic Hot, Pepper Hot, Horseradish, Herb, Fruit, Spirit (which includes any alcoholic beverage), American Yellow, Deli/Brown and Exotic. In this year's event, Robert Rothchild Rasberry Honey Mustard took first place in the Sweet Hot and was the overall Grand Champion. Robert Rothschild mustard's also took first in the Fruit (Apricot Ginger), second in Herb (Champagne Garlic) and third in Pepper Hot (Roasted Chipotle).

"In the past we've offered more basic mustards, but we've found that the public wants something different," says Laura Miller, a spokeswoman for Robert Rothschild, which is based in Urbana Ohio. However, sometimes "different" can be just plain weird, as in the case of the ill-fated Mint Mustard that Miller admits, was more mint than mustard.

It may seem obvious, but one of the criteria for judging the competition is that a mustard has to taste like mustard. "You have to close your eyes and say, 'This is definitely mustard,'"Levenson says. "With some types, you can't really tell." Category fidelity is another criterion. If a mustard is in the Herb category, for example, you have to be able to taste the herbs (which may include garlic and onion). Overall impression is the third standard by which a mustard is judged.

Levenson explains that the finish or final impression left by the mustard can be as important as it is in wine tasting. "Some mustards might smell fine and taste fine initially, but defects really show up on the finish," he says. Bitterness is a common flaw, as is starchiness-a raw flour taste. Some coarse-grained mustards, those that use whole seeds, can even taste gritty rather than grainy.

In my own private mustard competition, the popular Grey Poupon showed a winy sweetness and was the mildest among seven Dijons tasted. At the other end of the spectrum was the sinus-clearing Delouis, which finished third in the World Wide championships. In between, Maille, Bornier and Edmond Fallot were surprisingly mild. Roland Extra Strong was second to Delouis in strength, and Silver Palate came up creamy, with just enough zip.

Pommery has always been a leader in the coarse-grain category, but I found this venerable French mustard to be vinegary and grainy. At Levenson's suggestion, I tried it on a baked potato, instead of sour cream. I still don't get it's appeal.

Norman Bishop Garlic Dill, even though it's really more of a mustard sauce, is wonderful on chilled shrimp, served with vegetables or as a coating for rack of lamb. I was less impressed with the somewhat pasty Rothschild Champagne Garlic on the rack of lamb.

Rothschild Raspberry Honey, like so many specialty (and especially sweet-hot) mustards, was too sweet, but the Silver Palate Sweet and Rough mitigated this problem with a coarse-grain texture and plenty of spice, making it an excellent partner for ham, either for basting or on cold slices for a sandwich. Ditto for Rothschild Apricot Ginger, which also produced a nice glaze for roasted turkey breast. Stonewall Maine Maple Champagne had a texture somewhere between applesauce and pabulum, but was pleasantly sweet and sour, making it a good match for ham or rack of lamb.

The soupy, sea-foam-greep Terrapin Ridge Wasabi Lime may not look like a true mustard, but it was good with chilled shrimp. The Thai Curry &Sweet Basil provided more texture (bits of herbs), and reminded me of a satay sauce that could be used with roasted lamb or pork.

English hot mustards can blow you away with a one-dimensional heat, but Elsenham Strong Traditional Mustard was less sinus popping than the better known Colman's, plus it had a richer, more nuanced flavor.

What you drink with mustard-laced food depends on the type of mustard you are serving. Herbal mustards on a rack of lamb work nicely with a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. With less robust meats, try a fruity Beaujolais. For all-purpose mustard-friendly wine choose a German Riesling, preferably a crisp Mosel with alcohol that's low enough to avoid accentuating any heat and with fruit sufficient to match sweetness.

Variety aside, Americans lag far behind the French and English in mustard consumption. Try mustard with cheese-cheddar with fruit mustards and cider or pale ale; in salad dressings; and on cooked vegetables. Then again, you might be satisfied with a bag of pretzels and 3,122 mustards.